Over 95% of all tennis courts are "hard" courts. This usually means that they are made with 2" of asphalt, placed on top of a 4 inches crushed gravel base. The asphalt surface is then coated with 1 coat of a filler material and 2 coats of acrylic tennis court paint.
The installation process is very similar to that of an asphalt parking lot. Listed below are three different levels of service we provide for tennis courts ranging from new installations to face lifts to repairing severely damaged courts.
The Process for a simple face lift:
- Pressure wash tennis courts using a high-pressure water blaster, generating 3000 psi.
- Route and fill cracks over 3/4" width with a fine grade asphaltic concrete or a cementitious tennis court crack filler.
- Route and fill cracks under 3/4" width with an acrylic tennis court crack filler.
- After courts have been flooded, patch any water ponding areas which are holding more than 1/16" of water (the depth of a nickel) 1 hour after flooding, with a cementitious tennis court patch material.
- Remove any loose material and patch any divot areas or areas where paint and old patch material have delaminated with new cementitious tennis court patch material.
- Scrape and blow the tennis court resurfacer at right angles to one another using a rubber squeegee application.
- Apply 1 coat of tennis court resurfacer at right angles to one another using a rubber squeegee application.
- Apply 1 coat of textured (silica sand filled) acrylic tennis court paint at right angles to one another using a rubber squeegee application.
- Apply 1 coat of non-textured (non-sand filled) acrylic tennis paint.
- Tape and paint lines.
NOTE: Hairline cracks may begin to reappear within the newly filled cracks within one year following resurfacing. These cracks can often be touched up for several years thereafter. If cracking is significant and budgets allow, tennis courts should have the cracks treated and the entire surface repaved with 2" of hot asphalt prior to applying filler materials and color coats as described above.
The Process for severely damaged tennis courts:
- Clean and fill cracks with fine graded asphaltic concrete or cementitious patch material.
- Apply Petrotac crack retardant self-adhering strips to cracks over 1/4" in width (strips to be approximately 1' wide).
- Thoroughly clean the court.
- Prime the court with SS-1 liquid asphalt.
- Pave the tennis court with approximately 2" of hot, fine graded asphaltic concrete.
- Patch water ponding areas and apply 1 coats of filler and 2 coats of paint and paint lines per the above specifications.
The Process for a new tennis court:
- Find a site with dimensions of 120' x 60'.
- If possible, align the court with the 120' length stretching in a north/south direction. (This way neither player must deal with the glare of the sun at sunrise or sunset.)
- Excavate vegetation and organic (non-compactable soil). Note: It is generally preferable to install a court on a "cut" area as opposed to a "fill" area in order to minimize future settlement.
- If the court is installed along the side of a hill or in any other area where ground water may migrate into the rock base, a sub drain or "French drain" line should be installed around the perimeter of the court.
- Fine grade the sub base to a consistent 1% to 1 1/4% slope. If possible, generate this slope over both the length and the width to minimize ponding on the finished surface. This prolongs the life of the surface.
- Roll the sub base for compaction. Note: If the sub base is not compactable, soil treatment may be necessary, or soil may have to be removed and replaced with granular fill up to 8" in depth.
- Install 4" of 1" minus crushed gravel, grading the rock to a precise and consistent 1% to 1 1/4% slope (generating a uniform plane).
- Roll the rock for compaction.
- Roll for compaction.
- Install 2" of fine grade asphalt.
- Roll for compaction.
- Follow procedures for patching water ponding areas and color coating under "the resurfacing process".